Aliways and Ulice

This won't be a  big conversation because we have had a relaxing day sailing and I'm tired. We packed salads and nero rizotto (black squid ink risotto) and headed to Krvavica to go sailing just after midday.  We motored to a little bay on Brac Island and then just sat there - sun, gin coloured water, books and good conversation. Back as the ink black evening enveloped the Biokovo Mountains. What more to say? Except thanks for a lovely day Srdjan, Annette and Tony!

I forgot to mention  Omiš     (with a 'sh' on the 's')- this is a picturesque town that the bus to Split passes through - the deep green Cetina River running through it, and the most imposing rock outcrops surrounding the village. I've often meant to stop there to wander through the streets (ulice) but somehow there was always a reason not to do so - until yesterday when in the full heat of the Split transport area (buses, ferries, yelling) I asked for a ticket to  Omiš   before I could change my mind. We've rafted the Cetina River (remember last year?) and the road from  Omiš   to the hinterlands is steep and winding - dramatic 's' bends. In the medieval period, during the 12th and the 13th century, the town of Omiš and its infamous pirates were ruled by the powerful dukes of the family Kačić. At that time the pirates of Omiš launched attacks against papal galleons and merchant ships of the powerful Venice, Dubrovnik, Kotor, Spl...

Yesterday morning I jumped on an early bus to Split - this road still, after years of travelling along it, takes my breath away - the meeting of the sea and the lofty Biokovo Mountains is such a contrast, and the coast road winds around with incredible views - little villages, old houses nearly built on the  main road, olive groves, and people basking in the sun. You can always tell first timers on the bus, the cameras are whipped out to try to capture it - particularly if you are meeting the coast road from Imotski. I've tried to do so myself, but photos from the bus don't do it justice - you will just have to come here and see for yourself. Which brings me to the purpose of my Split visit: (apart from clothes shopping but admitting that could seem shallow) to talk to a Robyn Vulinovich-Sisaric who runs a travel tour business from Split. I have amused myself for years with thoughts of doing something similar, so that I can share the joy that this part of the world has given ...

There's been a small hiatus whilst I've gathered my wits and my yoga mat. I arrived at Batosic (with a 'sh' and a 'ch' on that word) B & B in Makarska, and am staying in the lofty heights of the third floor apartment - I feel like a princess . - the terasa is larger than my terrace at home, and larger than the apartment, it's amazing. But the other interesting thing was that Annette (B & B and yoga teacher and dear friend)  told me that the following day would be the beginning of a week long yoga retreat - come along she said, it will be great she said. So it's been yoga at sunrise and sunset. Plus the walk up and down the hill to get there - you just won't recognise me, so much exercise and stretching! Annette does these yoga intensives twice a year, and is now having returnees (repeat offenders) - in fact, at the last evening session, she was taken to task because the date for next years retreat isn't yet on the website - how'...

There are many faces, many sides and alley-ways in Makarska (and in case you ever wondered (which maybe you didn't) the streets are 'ulice' - you see what I did there?). There is the good the bad and the stunning. Part of the town looks like every other socialist country  - there was no place for aesthetics, functionality was the key - these apartments still remain, but I notice that these have had a coat of paint, trying to beautify the place. And then there is the old part of town which is still magical to me, little streets where you can slip away from the crowds, slip out of the sun. Quick history - 13th century the area was under Venetian rule (the port here was important) and then in the 15th century the Ottomans pushed through claiming territory  - again, they wanted the port. The Venetian recaptured the area in 1646 but then the area was given to the Austrians in 1797. Napoleon took control on the 8th of March 1806 until 1813 - the legacy un...