Brac (with a 'ch')
I'm living the island life on the island of Brac. It's a long island just a 45 minute ferry ride from Split, so close indeed that it seems that some people live in Split and commute here daily for work (that's what I decided as i sat in a cafe at 7 am watching workers roll off the ferry). How lovely would that be? Cheaper commute than public transport in Auckland!
I'm in Supetar for a couple of nights, it's a lovely place, gentle, lots of family groups from France holidaying here. I like it. I seem to wake at my normal 5 am no matter which time zone I'm in so I bounded out of bed to head out for a morning walk, bumped into the door, slid between the terasa door and the bed to get into the bathroom... Hotel Alegra is an experiment in seeing how small you can make a room, particularly the bathroom. I'm just lucky that I'm not a larger version of myself, because honestly, I wouldn't be able to get through the shower door into the world's tiniest shower. There is nowhere to put a toilet bag apart from on the cistern, and I leave the toilet seat down for fear of dropping things. Ok, I've got that off my chest. On the plus plus, there is a terasa with a chair and table and a drying rack - and a view of the sea. It's a two minute walk to the beach and a three minute walk into the village. And so far, I've found good coffee.
My walk took me around the path that follows the coast, up the stairs past the cemetery and then having got lost in a large resort of some kind, climbed some hilly streets and dropped back down to the riva. Only a few other walkers about, even a runner in this heat.
The mosaic pattern on the older streets is called 'kogulavanje' (the round stones used are 'kogule'). Great for walking on, a natural tread created by the perfectly laid stones.
After my first coffee, I sensed the need for a second - I'd been sitting googling cycle trips to join, and frustrated by the fact that so many of these trips can only be booked if there are two of you, I wandered in the direction of Bobi Pekara, knowing a good quality apple strudel when I see one. Before I knew it I had hired a scooter for the morning, chosen a sweat covered helmet, thrown some shorts on and was off in the direction of Splitska. I love a good scoot ride, although felt a bit naked without gloves.
Splitska was the destination of the cycle trip I couldn't book a place on - and now with scoot I could get there, and more. The smell of pines and the wonderful sound of the cicadas on the little dust road, passing cute little empty swimming bays. Each of these little villages on the coast has a deep port lined with little fishing boats, a church and a riva lined with cafes and bars. You don't find a cafe in the sun here, you sit as recessed as you can under the umbrellas to keep cool. And it's a people watching thing - front line of tables in the shade is prime real estate.
If you enlarge the map you can journey on scoot with me - I left from Supetar, and went to Splitska. Cute little port, I wound my way up the ulice amongst the old houses - slate roofs, rock walls, various states of repair.
From there to Postira, a duplication of Splitska but bigger - port, little fishing boats, cafes. Front seat, coffee...
and then decided to visit Dol which is famed for the etno organic cuisine - olive oils and a famous cake which is iced with walnuts to look like the stony landscape - ooooh and caves with mysterious monsters which howl. But nothing was open, I didn't even see anyone to say good morning to. It was cute though, different from the coastal villages, this one high in the hills.
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