When last we spoke, I was in Trogir. I took the local bus back to the airport, my thinking being that the shuttle bus is more comfortable and the local bus would stop a million times before reaching its destination. And I had no idea where the final stop was in relation to the Diocletian Palace of the kolodvor.

Back at Split, I may have done a little shopping (although it was shoes I was thinking about, and I found nothing that rocked me). I found a delicious chia breakfast bowl in a cafe, and together with a good coffee, I can report that the quality and range of food available now compared with 10 years ago is incredible. Gluten free, vegan, stunning salads and fruit smoothies are now freely available. Yuss!

I missed the 1:30 bus because I wanted to locate the hotel we are staying in  in early September (by we, I mean me and my GPs) and after getting lost a few times I found it - and it is as gorgeous as the website promised. It will cost an arm and a leg compared with some other options, but I think it will be worth it.
https://www.balaturasplit.com/

And then, waiting for the 2:15 bus I (literally) bumped into one of the women from the kiwi rowing team from the canal. Standing alone, looking tired and hot and a little, well, worried. It turned out that her travel buddy had fallen in Spain, broken her arm and decided to head back home, so here she was travelling alone for the first time ever. As she was also heading to Makarska, we jumped on the bus together and talked about the joys and challenges of travelling alone - most of these I think of as things to conquer. She was struggling with spending days without any real conversations, not even hearing English spoken. I understand that too, but after years of doing this, I'm comfortable with chatting to strangers. The first thing is a big smile.

So for her time in Makarska she had company (she was also in a hotel with a pool which I took advantage of, so delicious!) We swam, ate out, went to an evening concert (there was a tribute to Oliver,! Croatia's favourite son who died recently)

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C5CHFA_enNZ755NZ755&ei=BfVkXY-WHobNrgTc07DQDA&q=oliver+dragojevic+magdalena&oq=oliver+dragojevic+mag&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l4j0i22i30l6.1784.2391..5133...0.0..0.107.406.1j3......0....1..gws-wiz.......35i39j0i67.fXr7d_Q8rgQ

We hired a scooter and went up to granddad's village, and wandered around, including walking up to see Buselic's Kula, a tower built to hide in when there was fear of attack from the Turks. I'd been there years ago, and had tried to find it a couple of times without success but this time found someone I could very nicely ask for directions. And she understood my Croatian and explained where it was in Croatian (ha! small steps, little gains).






I always make sure that I check out what was granddad's family home, and this year some of the vines had been cleared, enough that I was able to stand in the doorway.





Sitting under the trees by Sveti Ante were a group of older men, including my cousin's husband, Drago. The first question is always 'when did you arrive' which makes me feel bad for not visiting yet, but was planning to visit when my brother arrives. I hope he understood my explanation. In any event, Zlata will know I'm in town now.

Lynarre has now left Makarska heading for Dubrovnik - I hope she will remember Makarska fondly, and I hope she challenges herself to eat out alone in Dubrovnik, or at the very least, sit alone with a cocktail in a corner bar and people watch. It's empowering.






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