Beach Culture

 Let's talk about the beach, or, of far more interest, let's talk about Beach Culture. First of all, let's have a disclaimer. Recimo, let's say that all things are contextual,  one man's beach is not another man's blowup pink flamingo. Sounds confusing? All will be revealed.

The main beach here in Makarska runs from Sveti Petar (you remember) through to, recimo, where the path changes   - so maybe 2 kilometres? It is a really pretty pebble beach with pine trees (squirrels!) but not a wide amount of pebble between the path/ pine trees, and the sea. (I'm trying to paint a picture here) - so, crystal clear water, pebbles - no waves to speak off (unless jugo or bura are blowing) and no noticeable tides. Maybe a change of 30 cm between high and low tide. The sound is just a gentle shwooshing of the water against the pebbles. It's an incredibly soothing sound. The aforementioned path runs right along the beach, paved, with cafes and other shops right on the beach front, and a continual flow of people passing by - some exercising, running in the mornings, delivery vans with about a foot on either side replenishing stock in the shops, waiters putting chairs and pillows out, and ashtrays on every table. Peaceful. I've been stopping at a cafe right on the beach at the end of my morning walk. Then it is a full on promenade in the evening, everyone out, dressed up - you walk to see and to be seen.



But here's the thing. The population doubles at this time of the year, and for many visitors this is the only time they ever see the beach, so expectations are different (I said we would get there). Imagine, you want to spend time on the beach but there are so many others wanting the same space. So you come down at 7 am before the sun is even on the beach and you stake your claim. Rucnik na plazu  (beach towel) secured with stones.








And it's all about activities. There are bouncy castles on the water, there are pedalinas, there are balls to throw, blown up toys (the grown man on the pink flamingo!) to float on. There are thousands upon thousands of bodies, where even if you wanted to put a towel down at midday, it would be a challenge.

(yes, that is surf lifesaving tower - and yes that is a water polo court in the sea - amazing sport to watch - and the mighty Biokovo in the background - its the background to all life here).



What would the kids in NZ be doing? Well, on a boogie board in the waves? making a sandcastle? Body boarding? Context, you see. No waves. And you'd be feeling thoroughly ripped off (or confused) if your parents had included a bucket for making sandcastles at this beach.  Remember that coming to the beach isn't an every weekend thing, it's a once a year thing - so those 20 plus year old guys on the pedalina with the stereo blasting, dancing to night club music weren't behaving as teenage boys in NZ would, but its contextual. No one raised an eyebrow (particularly the woman with botox on the rucnik 50 cms from me). (Side note - you can get your lips filled by the dentist at the same time you get your teeth checked here).

I'd forgotten the word 'krafne', and suddenly there was the beach vendor yelling out 'krafne, domace krafne' (home made do-nuts) followed by the guy selling 'kukuruz, maize'. (hot sweet corn). No one has soggy tomato sandwiches or bacon and egg pie here, [please fill in what your favourite picnic fare is].  They do however have playing cards. And whilst I'm all about this place, I have never sat on the beach and thought 'mm I could kill a hot cob of sweet corn right now...'. People, it's freaken 30 degrees and the top of your wish list is hot corn??

Or you could choose to totally relax and have a massage in the little tent on the beach - even the option of a chocolate massage (WT..)  - and this year,  a safety lock box.




There are numerous cabinas touting islets/excursions. So many things you can do. There is even a bankomat (cash flow machine) right there at the edge of the beach beside the sladoled (icecream) shop (the pistachio was amazing). 


This is a symbiotic relationship - you are on holiday and want to spend money, and the local operators are trying to think of as many ways possible to help you spend it.

It's completely different from a NZ Day At The Beach, but fabulous for observing behaviour. Everyone is creating summer holiday memories, just like we do. Just different memories. 

And if I see someone in a one piece or board shorts, definitely not local. 

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