Bastia

 Bastia has been truly lovely - it is like a fine old lady, a bit scruffy around the edges, you can see it has been grand, but it's not pretentious enough to try to be young and glamorous any more. Speaking of which, I saw the most glamorous woman ever this morning, possibly 70 years old, decked out in sparkly pink with high pink shoes and her hair swept into an elaborate coiff - I told her she looked fabulous, she returned the compliment but declined a photo...

There is a lot of graffiti (Italian word), often saying 'French Go Home'. Some of the old buildings are crumbling, but on a walk that I took at 7.30 this morning, I could see that up in Haute Corse (where the Lords lived, and the governmental administration was originally) there is a bit of renovation going on.

Corsica successively was part of the Republic of Genoa for five centuries. Despite take-overs by Aragon between 1296–1434 and France between 1553 and 1559, Corsica  remained under Genoese control until the Corsican Republic of 1755 and under partial control until its purchase by France in 1768. France needed to ensure access to the Mediterranean. The main language is French, with a current revival of Corsican which is a derivative of the language historically spoken in Tuscany. I'm not sure who wants the French to go home.

Street names are in French and Corsican. I've visited quite a few churches (don't I though). The streets are all paved and narrow, although cars still pass (just). I witnessed something remarkable when I was sitting in a cafe  - a car stopped on a tiny one way street on the Place du Marche where the market was - I realised that he was waiting for a delivery from a cafe - cars were backed up behind him AND NO ONE TOOTED OR GOT IMPATIENT. Wow.

The food has a real Italian influence (pasta and pizza) but the Saturday market was very French. I bought an amazing pancake with spring onions in it for breakfast, followed by a tarte aux pommes. Both divine.

There are a few discreet signs on buildings pointing out their historical significance - the building beside where I'm staying dates back to the mid 16th century, built for a wealthy merchant who made his money in the trade of fabrics. Above the door it says COL TEMPO - time conquers everything - or guess, in other parlance, this too shall pass. Really ornate - who wouldn't want a front door like that.

St Jean Baptiste dominates the old port that I'm looking out onto. Last night, having raced back on scoot from St Florent, 30 minutes later I was sitting in a concert in this beautiful church- the acoustics were incredible. Three men singing traditional Bastia songs a cappella - sometimes with the guitar, but mostly not, all in the Corsican language. 

And check out the produce at my local shop - just as well I'm not a vegetarian in Europe!

Tomorrow (early!) I head to Italy - I'll miss France, I feel as though I was just getting into confidently speaking French. Be weird to be in a country that I can't speak any of the language, but at least i can try to master please and thank you and one aperol spritz please...