Oh, the Ferry Ride

September 04, 2023

I had kind of twisted myself into a knot over the ferry to Italy. Firstly, I was originally booked for a 9 am sail - but then I received a random email saying that the ferry had been cancelled, please book again. I had ignored the message because it looked a bit like a scam - but when I checked at the tourist office, indeed, end of season stuff, would I prefer the 6:30am or the 2pm?

The knot was about how to get there - given the instructions were to be at the port an hour before sailing it meant either booking a taxi for the short distance but complicated one way streets, or walking. It would be dark - was it safe? I asked that question of a few people they all assured me it would be faster than a taxi, and of course it was safe...

I left the apartment in the dark at 5 - just the street cleaners around, and a few people setting up stalls for the morning markets. It was crisp and quiet and lovely.

So. Sitting in the boarding hall at the port by 5:30 am (check) still sitting at 6, still sitting at 6:30... and then the guy beside me (asleep) roused himself to ask whether I got the message that the ferry was delayed until 7:30... check my phone (which I keep switched to aeroplane mode) and yes. We finally boarded at 7:45. The game on these ferries is to rush (last one on is a donkey) and then lay your things all over chairs, tables etc to reserve space. Surprises for me - the number of dogs on the ferry, the dramatic music played as we left the port (think Titanic) and the food served - not a meet pie or sandwich in sight. The caprese salad that I ate for lunch rivalled anything I had had in France.The last surprise was that it was like a treasure hunt trying to find the bus to get to the train station. - even a taxi would have been great - you would think that the concept of people disembarking from the ferry and then trying to get to the next transport would be covered. I teamed up with a family from Bastia (heading to the train to get to their yacht in Trieste, and a couple of pig farmers from Denmark and between the combined language pool we got to the station, next train in two minutes... and here I am in Pietrasanta!

Pietrasanta is the most gorgeous town, just a few minutes walk from the train station. Sophisticated - a town of art. I've found that often, the first glance at the shops in a village gives a rough idea of what ranks as important. In Croatia - bread shops, baby clothes shops and glasses. In France, again so many optician shops - here, it is clothes shops, interior design shops and loads of art galleries. Loads. And sculptures and statues.

I could live here, it's great. It's called the little Athens of Italy because of the huge artistic reputation. I'd need to learn to stay away from the amazing clothing. shops, and learn what to order for coffee though, as this morning's 'cafe au lait' (which worked in France) resulted in a large glass of tepid milky coffee. I think I need to say 'cafe macchiato'. I drank the milky drink with the attitude that confirmed that that was exactly what I wanted.

The town was originally a marble mining centre and marble is used like concrete in Croatia. It borders gardens, it is used on driveways as pebbles. The bathroom in my apartment here (thanks Tracey - a NZ International Woman of Travel who has hung her travel bag up here in Pietrasanta) is made from the beautiful local white carrera marble.

I've never seen so much marble as in the church on the piazza (St Martins - the duomo).

Michelangelo worked here using the marble as did many other famous sculptors.

Last night I ate at Sementis, a 'slow food' restaurant, and

although there were reserved signs on most of the tables they swapped them around and made a space for me - I don't normally take photos of my food, but honestly, the first bite was heaven, and I needed to share it. Much cheaper than France and the range of food (going on what I saw on menus in Nice and Bastia) is much wider. So exciting - I'll go back to eat again tonight!

We went walking up into the olive groves this morning - I've tried to capture the beauty, hard to do so when walking at pace, Tracey leading the charge. The nets are hanging on the fences and trees in preparation the olive harvest in November. (I thought fishing initially but had to adjust my thoughts quickly)...